Denmark and in particular Danish culture is punching well above its weight just now. With TV shows like The Killing attracting a cult following and the likes of Noma serving up some of the most innovative food around, it’s little wonder that Copenhagen is developing a reputation as one of the happiest places in the world.
So let’s welcome Sticks’n'Sushi, Denmark’s favourite sushi restaurant (well, according to the staff uniform). There are two menus available; one is a la carte with a dizzying number of items. It consists of sushi and many inventive takes on ‘yakitori’, which is usually grilled chicken on a skewer, hence the name ‘sticks’. The other is called a set menu but is essentially platters of food, perfect for the indecisive. Despite the extremely helpful waitress, we still spent a while looking through all options as there are so many.
We settled on ‘Table for 2/Sticks’n'sushi’ from the set menu, which has a good selection of, as you may guess, sticks and sushi for £39.50. We also added on two a la carte items.
I’ve never eaten beef tataki like this (this is not part of the set). It’s not often you see smoked cream cheese on this dish, let alone want it but it actually brought everything together. This unlikely bunch of ingredients really made for a very tasty mouthful.
The sushi part of the set menu arrived next. It was made up of eight pieces of nigiri, two of each (salmon, garlic and salmon, tuna and shrimp). There were also eight pieces of uramaki, (tuna, California, black Alaska and something bizarrely called ‘mamma mia’ which I remember as being avocado and cucumber). There were also four futomaki ‘big gypsy’ rolls. These contained salmon and pickle. This platter was a little heavy on salmon but the quality of each item was high.
The grilled scallop nigiri was our other a la carte choice. Like everything else before, it was a thing of beauty and tasted damn good too.
On to the ‘sticks’. The first we tried were bacon wrapped asparagus. If only more things were wrapped and grilled in bacon, the world would surely be a better place. The chicken tsukune (pictured on far left) was like a chicken meatball. If I didn’t know it was chicken, I would’ve guessed these were pork, by the texture and flavour. The middle stick was chicken breast coated in a chilli dip, the sauce was delicious.
There were a lot of tempting items that I wanted to try on the menu, however, it would’ve been all to easy to rack up a hefty bill. The platters do make a lot of sense if you’re not looking to spend an arm and leg but some of them don’t have the more exciting or unusual sushi included. This may not be traditional Japanese on any account but it definitely is good quality at affordable prices, if you order wisely.
Meal for two with soft drinks and service £68
Address: 11 Henrietta Street, London WC2E 8PY
Tel: 020 3141 8810